ROMAN VERONA

We can start from Piazza Bra (from the old German word breit meaning wide): it lies to the south of the Roman city, outside its town walls, and is dominated by the Arena amphitheatre, the third largest such building built in the time of Flavius (1st Century A.D.): it is a clear sign of the importance of ancient Verona, as it could hold more than 20.000 spectators. Today, it is the Summer home of great lyric opera, applauded by thousand of people. The outer circle, of which just four arches over three storeys remain, collapsed following the earthquakes of 1117 and 1183, whereas the inside seating is the work of an admirable restoration project begun in the XV Century.

The Maffei Museum, on the opposite side of the square, in the coutyard of the PhilarmonicTheatre, houses an exhibition of Greek, Roman and Mediaeval epigraphs collected by the Veronese scholar Scipione Maffei in the 1700s. Behind the arena itself, in the small square called "Mura di Gallieno", as also the west in Corte Farina, one can see substantial remains of the Gallieno walls, built in all haste by the Emperor Gallieno. The most ancient walls stood eight metres further north, running to the east along the present-day Via Leoncino down to Porta Leona Gate, of which one can still admire the internal facade and the base of one of the two towers, and to the west as far as the River Adige, with an opening for the Porta Borsari Gate, of which the exterior facade still remains: both gates were built in the time of Flavius (1st Century A.D.): Porta Borsari stood on the Decumano Massimo (decumanus), the major north-south road, identifiable today as Corso Porta Palio, Corso Cavour and Corso Portoni Borsari, while the Porta Leona was the starting point for the administration of the Veronese people for Shakespeare and his universal art has its focal point: the House of Juliet.
Walking along these streets, or down the Via Mazzini on the north west side of Piazza Bra (one of the very first streets in Italy to be turned into a pedestrian precinct, and now lined with exclusive shops), we come to the Piazza Erbe: the ancient forum, the civic, political and religious heart of the early city which within its walls covere a surface area of around 440.000 sq.m. The colourful fruit and vegetable market has stood here for more than two thousand years, alongside the buildings of the late Mediaeval and Renaissance periods, and some of the most beautiful frescoed houses in all Verona (Casa Mazzanti, north side), the ancient Torre dei Lamberti, the still olderGardello tower next to the splendid Maffei Palace, home of the Tourist Board, and the so-called Ghetto. The whole area around the Piazza Erbe, standing 3.5 meters higher than the Roman level, is a wealth of remains of Roman pavement, all easily seen in the nearby courtyards and squares. Crossing the river by the Roman bridge known as Ponte Pietra, one comes to the Roman Theatre: restoration work, begun in the XVIII Century, has brought to light one of the most interesting monuments of the very early Imperial period, built into the Hill of St. Peter's, Verona's most ancient residential area, with an air space up to 20 meters high. Re-crossing the Adige, the western side is occuped by the complex of buildings of the Duomo, Verona's Cathedral, built on an ancient spa site, where a significant number of traces of a paleochristian basilica (IV-V Century A.D.), have been found.

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